in the past few years, sport climbing has become one of the fastest-growing sports in the world.
This explosion in popularity could be because of superstars like Alex Honnold, who in addition to starring in the documentary Free Solo now has several climbing shows with National Geographic. It could also be the proliferation of easily accessible indoor gyms. Or maybe it’s just because sport climbing is the safer way to go up a wall; its competitors clip ropes into secure, pre-drilled bolts rather than setting their own protective equipment the way traditional, or trad, climbers do.
The sport made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, with climbers matching up in three different formats: speed, lead, and bouldering. US climber Nathaniel Coleman secured a gold medal in the men’s combined event at the Tokyo Games.
This August, American Jesse Grupper will be competing in Paris. Grupper is from Montclair, New Jersey, where he started climbing in an indoor gym when he was six. He earned his degree in mechanical engineering from Tufts and worked in Harvard’s Biodesign Lab, developing exoskeletons for stroke victims, and he is currently still a research fellow in the lab.
But Grupper largely pivoted away from the academic research life when he went full-time pro and started cleaning up on the World Cup competition circuit. In 2023, he qualified for the 2024 Paris Olympics when he took gold in the men’s combined lead and bouldering in Santiago at the 2023 Pan American Games. I caught up with Jesse over Zoom on a sunny training day in Switzerland to find out what he’s bringing to Paris.
What Jesse Grupper Is Bringing to the Olympics
JLab Audio Go Air Sport
Over Zoom, I kept finding myself peering at Grupper’s earbuds to find out what he had. They were the JLab Go Air Sport, which is the top-ranked budget option in our Best Headphones for Working Out guide. They’re the sport version of 2020’s Go Air (8/10, WIRED Recommends) that cost just a little bit more for the secure ear hooks and a cover that closes on top.
The build quality, Bluetooth connection, and sound quality are amazing, considering the price. As a plus, they come in a wide variety of playful colors. “They fit easily, they’re not too expensive,” Grupper says. “I’ve had them for a while, and they’re not broken yet, so I’m excited about that.”
La Sportiva Solution
La Sportiva is an Italian company that’s been making technical climbing apparel for almost 100 years. When you’re choosing between closure systems on your climbing shoes, laced closures will give you a more fine-tuned fit, while Velcro lets you get them on and off more easily. The Solution combines the two with La Sportiva’s Fast Lacing system.
As with all footwear, finding the exact right climbing shoe can be a challenge—and even more so for professional climbers, who rely on their precision footwork to get ever higher. “These have that nice middle point of being flexible enough to stand on volumes [the climbing term for bigger surfaces] while still being stiff enough for tiny footholds,” Grupper says. “A lot of companies have moved toward creating softer shoes for the indoor market, but I like having a stiffer shoe for my quiver.”
Armaid
In the past few months, Grupper has been dealing with a flexor tendon strain; earlier this year, he had to take a six-week break to allow his hands to recover. It was stressful, he says, though he is maintaining a positive attitude as Paris gets closer. “I don’t feel like I have to compare myself to others, or want to do that, because I’m just trying to figure out where I’m at. I’m not in the best physical shape of my life, and that might change in the next month, but I’m just trying to take it day by day.”
The Armaid is a small, portable device that lets you massage trigger points—small, pressure-sensitive areas that can carry a lot of pain and stiffness. The Armaid consists of a nonskid base, a stationary arm, and an adjustable small arm with small roller balls. “I put my forearm right in here and squeeze with my other hand so my forearm is compressed,” Grupper says, demonstrating. “The tendon that I sprained runs all the way through my forearm, so I can release it from the tension.” The Armaid is also helpful for other overuse injuries, like tennis elbow, golfer’s elbow, or tendinitis.
Trango Horizon Harness
Most climbers don’t need too many features on their harness. Unless the climber is competing in a specific discipline like ice climbing or canyoneering, or if they have a specific body type—children typically require a kid’s harness, for example—then they can just pick a harness based on comfort. “I sit in my harness a lot of the day when I’m training, so comfort is probably the most important thing I look for in a harness,” Grupper says. He uses the Trango Horizon. “It has extra loops for attaching things to it, it’s intuitive to use, and it’s a safe brand that I trust.” Full disclosure: Trango is one of Grupper’s sponsors and the representation that arranged this interview.
Sterling Aero Rope
When you’re climbing, your rope is your best friend. It’s the item that keeps you from falling and hitting the ground! There are many different kinds of ropes, but for sport climbing, you want a single, dynamic rope that will stretch and give as you fall. A thicker rope is more durable, but harder to carry and maneuver into the draws. Also, keep your rope’s length in mind—you want the pitch that you’re climbing to be half the length of your rope in order to descend safely. So if you’re climbing a 30-meter route, you need a 60-meter rope.
Grupper likes Sterling’s Aero Rope because, with a thickness of 9.2 millimeters, it’s extremely thin and light compared to other ropes. The fibers are also treated with what Sterling calls a Xeros process that keeps it clean and dry and allows it to glide more easily through your rappel or belay device. It’s also easier to slide it through draws so your rope isn’t creating unnecessary drag. “The higher you go, the more weight that’s strapped onto your harness,” he says. Sterling’s ropes are vetted by the ecological responsibility certification group Bluesign, and the company has a recycling program for dead ropes—a nice option if you don’t feel like hooking your own rug out of your spent ropes.
Nike Precool Ice Vest
“My gear has changed a decent amount due to climate change,” Grupper says. As with most outdoor sports, cooler air temperatures are preferable. Grupper likes climbing when it’s around 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Unfortunately, this year in Paris, the temperatures are expected to rise quite a bit higher, possibly reaching 90 degrees.
When temperatures are high, most of us stay safe by staying in temperature-controlled environments and not exerting ourselves too heavily. That’s not an option for Olympians, who are justly concerned about the health risks of competing in high temperatures. According to a 2023 report, 110 athletes suffered heat-related illnesses during the Tokyo Olympics. This year’s number could be even higher.
“Almost every competitor has a personal fan, and a lot of teams bring ice packs and coolers. We might have personal air conditioners for the warm-up area itself,” which is indoors, while the venue is outside, says Grupper. “I do think it’s pretty interesting how the sport is evolving to meet the demands of climate change.”
Luckily, most of the teams are providing personal cooling equipment, but Grupper has been practicing while wearing an ice vest, just to see what it feels like. Nike has made specific ice vests for Team USA for this year’s Olympics; this isn’t one, but it has four refreezable ice packs in pockets that can be easily transported.
“Sometimes I’ll even pour water on my head before competing,” Grupper says. “I may not look my best, but it’s what you have to do.”
Grupper will be competing in the men’s bouldering and lead competitions at the Le Bourget climbing venue. The first semifinal will be held on August 5, and the men’s final will be held on August 9.
